Black Iris by Borsalino, or How to Translate the Image of a Felt Hat Into a Perfume
At the end of 2025, the renowned hat brand unveiled , the feminine counterpart to , which was launched a few months earlier. I had the opportunity to discover the duo, which left me preferring the masculine version, an elegant composition created by Nicolas Bonneville (dsm-firmenich), under the artistic direction of Chantal Roos.

I'll focus here on Black Iris, which won me over, while I find the women's version a bit too sweet or derivative, even if it's technically well-constructed. The men's version seems more in line with the image of elegance the brand promotes. In the vein of Dior Homme with its dominant iris note, it exudes a refined, undeniably chic charm.
From the very first notes, carrot seed lends a powdery dimension to the fragrance. There's a burst of spice, carried by cardamom, whose lemony bitterness is enhanced by bergamot.
Then the iris butter unfolds its powdery softness, blending with that of the carrot seed. The choice of iris is not insignificant; its downy notes perfectly evoke the texture and scent of a hat's felt. The characteristic elegance of iris also perfectly embodies the timeless image of Borsalino, a cinematic icon, notably featured on screen in the eponymous film. Finally, it's a nod to the brand's Italian roots, as Iris Pallida is cultivated in Florence (among other places). A few discreet woody touches underscore the iris's earthy effect.
The powdery accord unfolds on a base of amber and vanilla, enveloping the fragrance in a warm, rounded quality. It evokes the feeling of a luxurious hat, simultaneously supple, comfortable (vanilla), and chic (iris). Subtle amberwoods enhance the fragrance's longevity and sillage without being overpowering.
While not necessarily groundbreaking, it's a soft and sophisticated men's fragrance, finely crafted. A must-try for fans of this style!


